I walked Llanmadoc Hill and Whiteford Burrows on a bright but windy day in early spring. The drive out to Llanmadoc took longer than expected, with winding lanes that narrowed into passing places as the village approached. Parking was in a small village car park, already half full by the time I arrived late morning. Boots on, jacket zipped against the wind, and I set out with a flask of tea in my pack and a couple of cereal bars for later.
The route began with a steady climb out of the village. The gradient wasn’t sharp but enough to work the legs from the outset. The ground underfoot was a mix of grass and sandy patches, firm enough on a dry day but easy to imagine boggy after rain. The higher I climbed, the stronger the wind became, pressing against me from the west. Reaching the ridge, the view opened wide in every direction: to the north, the Loughor Estuary and Carmarthenshire coast; to the south, the sweep of Broughton Bay and the open sea.
Wild ponies grazed nearby, heads down against the wind, seemingly unbothered by the exposure. The ridge itself undulated, never difficult but demanding steady footing in the gusts.
From the ridge, I followed the path down toward Whiteford Burrows. The descent was sandy, with loose sections that had me leaning forward to keep balance. At the bottom, the landscape shifted entirely — from open ridge to rolling dunes and pine woodland. The shelter from the trees was welcome after the constant wind above.
The path wound between dunes, the sand soft and energy-sapping in places. Even a short stretch felt like more work than the distance suggested. I stopped briefly by a sheltered bank for water, grateful to escape the gusts.
Pressing on, the dunes gave way to the vast openness of Whiteford Sands. The tide was out, leaving a huge expanse of flat, rippled sand stretching toward the sea. In the distance, the cast-iron lighthouse stood alone, a marker against the horizon. I didn’t go all the way out on this occasion — the sand closer to the water was too soft, and I’d already had enough effort from the dunes — but even from a distance the view was worth it.
Looping back inland, the path cut again through dunes and woodland before rising steadily toward the village. The final climb wasn’t steep but felt heavier on tired legs. Reaching the car park, I sat on the tailgate, poured tea from the flask, and looked back toward the ridge I’d crossed earlier. The wind still swept across the hilltop, unrelenting even at a distance.
The Llanmadoc Hill and Whiteford Burrows walk is all about variety — open ridges with vast views, shifting sand dunes that sap your energy, and the lonely stretch of Whiteford Sands. It’s not technically difficult, but the wind and sand add their own challenges. It’s a route that feels both remote and rewarding, and one that lingers in memory long after the walk is done.
– **Distance**: Around 5 miles (circular).
– **Weather**: Bright skies, strong westerly wind.
– **Terrain**: Ridge paths, sandy descents, dunes, pine woodland.
– **Parking**: Small car park in Llanmadoc village.
– **Gear**: Boots with grip, windproof jacket, water and snacks.
