I walked Ilston Valley on a damp autumn morning, the sort of day where the sky never really clears and the ground stays soft underfoot. The drive out through Gower was uneventful, though the final stretch into Ilston meant squeezing past parked cars on the narrow lane. Parking was limited — a small roadside pull-in that already held two cars — but I managed to tuck mine in without blocking the track.
With boots laced and a waterproof pulled tight against the drizzle, I set off along the path that follows the Ilston stream. The cool air carried the smell of wet leaves and woodsmoke from nearby cottages, a reminder of how rural this part of Gower feels.
The path hugged the stream closely, sometimes dropping right to its edge where the ground was slick with mud. Fallen leaves made the surface slippery, so each step needed attention. Waterproof boots with decent grip were essential here. The steady sound of water moving over rocks set the rhythm for the first mile.
Stone bridges crossed the stream at intervals, some intact and others reduced to ruins. Each gave the sense of a route well-used over centuries. My wife walked with me on this occasion, and we stopped to look at the ivy-covered remains of a small chapel tucked against the hillside — one of several along this valley.
As the track climbed slightly, the trees closed in overhead. Oak, beech, and ash gave the canopy a dark, enclosed feel, with only thin strips of grey light breaking through. The path narrowed, the undergrowth pushing in close, and in places the mud gave way to exposed roots that tested balance and footing. It wasn’t steep, but the uneven surface kept the pace slow.
We passed two other walkers heading back the opposite way, both with dogs caked in mud from nose to tail. It confirmed what the state of my boots already told me — this is not a route for trainers or casual shoes.
After about an hour, the woods opened out briefly onto farmland. From here, the valley stretched ahead in a patchwork of fields and hedges, before closing back into woodland again further along. We used the break in the cover to stop for water and a cereal bar, leaning on a gate while we looked back down the valley. The drizzle had eased, but the air stayed cool enough to keep jackets zipped.
The return followed the same riverside path. Going back downhill, the mud was worse, churned up by walkers and dogs. Careful steps and steady footing brought us back to the village without slips. By the time we reached the car, boots and waterproofs were splattered but the walk felt worthwhile — quiet, atmospheric, and rooted in history.
We drove back through Parkmill, stopping at the Gower Inn for lunch before heading home. A pint and a hot meal felt like the right end to a damp but rewarding walk.
Ilston Valley is not a glamorous walk, but it is one of character. Between the ruined chapels, the old stone bridges, and the steady company of the stream, it feels steeped in history. The mud and the narrow paths make it more demanding than the distance suggests, but that’s part of its charm — a route that requires attention but rewards with atmosphere.
– **Distance**: Around 4 miles (out and back).
– **Weather**: Drizzle, cool, grey skies.
– **Terrain**: Muddy riverside path, woodland roots, occasional climbs.
– **Parking**: Very limited roadside spaces at Ilston.
– **Gear**: Waterproof boots with grip, waterproof jacket, spare socks recommended.
