I walked from Parkmill to Three Cliffs on a mild summer morning, one of those days where the air was already warm but a thin layer of cloud kept the sun from glaring. The drive into Parkmill was steady enough, though the car park by the Gower Heritage Centre was already filling when I arrived mid-morning. I paid at the machine, tightened my boots, and set off down the valley path.
The track began wide and easy, running beside the stream that cut through the valley. The air was cool here, shaded by overhanging trees, with birdsong carrying clearly. The path narrowed quickly though, becoming muddy in stretches where water pooled across the trail. My boots sank deep more than once, and I was glad I’d chosen the pair with better waterproofing.
The further I went, the quieter it became, the sound of traffic from the main road giving way to running water and the rustle of leaves. Every so often, the valley opened slightly to reveal small clearings, before closing back into woodland again.
As the valley deepened, the path began to rise slightly, sandy underfoot and loose in places. The climb wasn’t long but made the legs work, especially where the surface gave way beneath each step. The reward came soon after, when the trees thinned and the estuary came into view, winding its way out to the bay.
The transition from shaded woodland to open sand felt dramatic. One moment I was ducking under branches; the next, the full sweep of Three Cliffs Bay stretched ahead.
The cliffs themselves dominated the scene — sharp limestone peaks rising above the estuary. With the tide low, the estuary crossing was simple, though the wet sand pulled at the boots and left a fine layer of grit over the leather. I climbed partway up the grassy slope for a better view. From there, the panorama was striking: the castle ruins behind me, the estuary curling below, and the cliffs framing the open sea.
A few other walkers were dotted around, some with dogs racing across the flats, but the bay still felt wide enough to find quiet.
The route back followed the same valley trail. The mud felt more noticeable on the return, as if the legs were less willing to lift as high after a couple of hours’ steady effort. I kept a measured pace, stopping briefly by the stream for water before finishing at the car park.
Back at the Heritage Centre, I grabbed a quick coffee before heading home, grateful to sit for a while before the drive back through the lanes.
The Parkmill to Three Cliffs walk offers a quieter approach to one of Gower’s best-known bays. The valley path is enclosed and muddy in places, but the reward comes when it suddenly opens onto the cliffs and estuary. It’s a route that balances effort with reward, and one that shows Three Cliffs from a different angle than the usual clifftop views.
– **Distance**: About 4 miles (out and back).
– **Weather**: Warm summer morning, thin cloud, light breeze.
– **Terrain**: Woodland tracks, muddy stretches, sandy climbs, estuary crossing.
– **Parking**: Gower Heritage Centre, Parkmill (pay and display).
– **Gear**: Waterproof boots, light jacket, water bottle.
