I walked the Pwll Du Headland and Brandy Cove route on a mixed-weather spring day, when the skies alternated between sharp sun and passing showers. The drive down through Bishopston was straightforward, though the final lane was narrow and forced a careful squeeze past oncoming cars. I parked in one of the small roadside pull-ins and set off with boots, a waterproof jacket, and a flask of tea in the pack.
The path began as a steady track through woodland, damp underfoot with the smell of earth and wild garlic in the air. The climb was gradual but enough to warm the legs. Emerging from the cover, the headland opened up quickly, giving wide views over the sweep of Pwll Du Bay below. The sea was restless, the tide rolling in with a steady rhythm, white spray lifting against the rocks.
The exposure here was immediate. The wind pressed hard across the cliffs, and I pulled the jacket tighter. The footing was mostly grass, with patches of rock to negotiate. Nothing technical, but enough to keep attention focused.
From the headland, I followed the coastal path eastward. The track narrowed in places, hugging the cliff edge before dropping slightly inland. The ground was uneven, slick where rain had left its mark, and my boots carried mud within minutes. After about half an hour, Brandy Cove came into sight — a small shingle bay framed by steep slopes. The descent was steep, loose in places, and I took it slowly to avoid sliding.
At the bottom, the bay was quiet. The tide was still low, leaving enough space to cross the stones and find a flat spot to sit. I poured tea from the flask, watching the waves break against the far end of the cove. Apart from a pair of dog walkers, the place was empty.
Climbing back out of Brandy Cove was sharper than expected, the loose surface demanding effort from the legs. Once back on the higher path, the going eased, and the return along the headland felt quicker with the sun breaking through between clouds. The contrast between light and shade across the sea gave the coastline a striking look.
By the time I returned to the car, the showers had caught up again, drumming on the roof as I stowed my pack. Timing, as always, makes all the difference on these short coastal walks.
– **Distance**: Around 3 miles (out and back).
– **Weather**: Mixed spring weather — sun and showers, breezy on headlands.
– **Terrain**: Woodland tracks, grassy clifftops, steep descent to Brandy Cove.
– **Parking**: Small roadside pull-ins near Bishopston.
– **Gear**: Waterproof boots, waterproof jacket, flask of tea.
Pwll Du Headland and Brandy Cove is a compact walk but one with real variety. Woodland, clifftops, steep descents, and a quiet shingle bay combine to make it feel like more than the miles suggest. The changing weather only added to the atmosphere — a reminder that on Gower, even the shorter routes carry a sense of scale and challenge.
