I walked the Pwll Du to Caswell Bay route on a clear late summer morning, when the air was fresh and the sea looked calm under bright skies. The drive into Bishopston was straightforward, though parking near Pwll Du is always limited. I found a spot on the roadside, pulled on my boots, and set off down the steep lane toward the bay.
The descent into Pwll Du was shaded and damp, the lane lined with thick trees and dripping after recent rain. The bay opened suddenly at the bottom — a wide crescent of shingle with the tide far out, leaving slick stones and shallow pools. The footing was awkward across the shingle, each step sliding slightly, but the sound of the stones shifting underfoot was distinctive.
From here, I picked up the coastal path climbing out toward Caswell. The gradient was immediate, the path narrow and rough, with loose rocks in places. It was enough to push the legs and force attention to footing.
Once higher on the cliffs, the path evened out into a steady track. The sea stretched wide to my right, deep blue and calm, while to the left, scrub and gorse lined the slopes. The air smelled of salt and warm earth. The footing was mostly dry, though one or two shaded gullies carried mud that stuck to the boots.
The path rose and fell with the shape of the cliffs, never steep for long but always undulating enough to keep the legs working. Views ahead teased glimpses of the headland above Caswell, the finish point just out of reach.
The final descent into Caswell was sandy and loose, the sort of surface that makes each step slide a little. At the bottom, the bay opened wide, busy with families, surfers, and café-goers. The contrast with the quiet at Pwll Du was striking. I walked across the sand to the water’s edge, rinsing the grit from my boots before sitting on a rock to take in the lively scene.
I grabbed a coffee from the café by the car park, sitting for a while before turning back for the return.
The climb back up from Caswell was harder in the midday heat. The undulating path that had felt steady earlier now pressed harder on tired legs. I slowed the pace, stopping briefly at a shaded spot for water. By the time Pwll Du came back into sight, the tide had shifted further in, and the shingle crossing was narrower.
Back at the roadside, I was glad to swap boots for trainers before the drive home.
The Pwll Du to Caswell Bay walk is a route of contrasts — quiet shingle bay at one end, lively sandy beach at the other, with a clifftop path connecting them. It’s not a difficult walk, but the uneven surfaces and steady climbs make it one that asks for attention. The mix of solitude and energy makes it a rewarding coastal stretch.
– **Distance**: Around 4 miles (out and back).
– **Weather**: Clear late summer skies, calm seas, warm air.
– **Terrain**: Shingle bay, narrow cliff paths, sandy descents.
– **Parking**: Limited roadside near Pwll Du.
– **Gear**: Boots with grip, water, light jacket.
