This walk was done in late spring, on one of those rare clear days when the horizon seems endless. The drive down to Rhossili is always a commitment — winding roads that get narrower the further west you go. The reward, though, is that first glimpse of the bay as you crest the final hill, sand stretching for miles and Worm’s Head jutting out into the sea. Parking wasn’t cheap, but at least the National Trust car park had plenty of space when I arrived.
I packed light for the day — boots, a windproof jacket, and enough food and water to see me through. The plan was to climb the Downs first before heading out toward Worm’s Head if the tide allowed.
The climb up Rhossili Downs starts steeply from the village. It’s not a long ascent, but it hits you straight away with its gradient. The path is clear but rocky, demanding steady steps. By the time I gained the ridge, my legs were warm and my breathing heavy, but the view made it worthwhile. Looking back, Rhossili Bay stretched northward in a perfect curve, the tide halfway out and the sand gleaming in the sun.
Along the ridge, the ground rolled in gentle rises and dips, covered in heather and grass. A kestrel hovered ahead, riding the breeze. The wind was stronger up here than in the village, cutting through the jacket easily when I stopped to take in the view. Moving kept the chill at bay.
After following the ridge north for a while, I descended back toward the village and made my way across to the causeway. Timing was everything — the tide leaves only a short window to cross safely. I’d checked beforehand and had about two and a half hours to spare. The rocks across the causeway were sharp and slick with seaweed, requiring concentration. Good boots were essential here, and even then, I had to pick my steps carefully.
Halfway across, the view back toward Rhossili was striking: the bay framed by high cliffs, the Downs standing proud above it all. A few other walkers were making the same crossing, each taking their time, no one rushing.
Reaching Inner Worm, the ground rose into grassy slopes with steep drops either side. It felt exposed, the sea crashing below. I climbed partway up for a better view, careful not to get too close to the edges where the ground crumbled. Beyond lay Outer Worm, cut off by deeper water, unreachable without climbing gear and calm seas.
I stopped here for lunch, sitting on a flat patch of grass with the waves pounding far below. The wind carried seabirds’ cries from the cliffs, and the lighthouse at the far end of the headland stood small against the sky.
Crossing back required attention. The tide was already creeping in, filling gullies that had been dry two hours earlier. A couple of walkers ahead of me picked up the pace, and I followed, glad to be off the rocks before they disappeared under the surf. The climb back into the village was steady but manageable, and the sight of the car park felt like the right finish.
I ended the day with fish and chips from the small café nearby, sitting outside with tired legs and salt still clinging to my jacket.
Rhossili Downs and Worm’s Head is one of Gower’s defining walks — demanding without being extreme, and offering views few other places can match. The steep climb, the tidal causeway, and the exposed headland all add challenge, but it’s the combination of landscape and sea that stays with you. It’s the kind of walk that makes the long drive and the tired legs worth every step.
– **Distance**: 6–7 miles including Worm’s Head (out and back).
– **Weather**: Clear, breezy, cool wind on exposed ridges.
– **Terrain**: Steep ascent, rocky causeway, grassy ridges.
– **Parking**: National Trust car park at Rhossili, large but pricey.
– **Gear**: Waterproof boots with good grip, windproof jacket, plenty of water.
