I walked the Southgate to Pwll Du Bay route on a mild early autumn day, when the sky was clear but the breeze off the sea carried a definite chill. The drive down to Southgate was simple enough, though the National Trust car park was already busy with dog walkers and families by mid-morning. I paid at the machine, pulled on my boots, and set off with a jacket tied around my waist.
The walk began easily along the wide coastal path. The footing was firm, with short grass and stone underfoot, and the sea stretched out blue and calm to the south. The track rolled gently, never steep, but the openness meant the breeze pressed constantly from one side. A few other walkers were out, spaced far enough apart that it never felt crowded.
Looking back, the view east toward Pennard Cliffs was sharp and clear, while ahead the coastline dipped gradually toward Pwll Du. The sense of scale made the distance seem longer than it really was.
The path narrowed as it dropped toward the bay. Here the ground became rougher, with loose stones and patches of mud where small streams crossed the trail. Careful steps were needed in places, though nothing technical. The sound of the sea grew louder, mixing with the call of gulls overhead. My pace slowed naturally on the descent, partly for footing, partly to take in the view.
Reaching the bay, the contrast was immediate. The broad shingle beach curved in a crescent, backed by steep slopes of scrub and woodland. The tide was partway out, leaving a wide strip of stones slick with water. Crossing the beach took effort — the shingle shifted under every step, making progress slow. I stopped at a flat rock to drink water and watch the waves roll in, their sound amplified by the stones dragging back with each retreat.
A pair of teenagers were skimming stones further along the shore, their laughter carrying across the bay. Otherwise, the place felt quiet and tucked away.
The climb back was steady, the same route in reverse. The loose stone sections were more of a test uphill, demanding shorter, careful steps. The breeze felt stronger on the return, pressing head-on this time, but the open views kept the pace steady. Reaching the car park, the space was now overflowing, cars lining the roadside — a reminder that this is one of Gower’s popular starting points.
I finished with a coffee from the small café nearby before heading home.
Southgate to Pwll Du Bay is a route that balances ease with atmosphere. The paths are clear and manageable, but the descent and shingle demand steady effort. The reward is a bay that feels secluded and sheltered despite its popularity, with views that make even a short outing feel worthwhile.
– **Distance**: Around 4 miles (out and back).
– **Weather**: Clear early autumn skies, cool coastal breeze.
– **Terrain**: Grassy coastal tracks, stony descents, shingle beach.
– **Parking**: National Trust car park at Southgate.
– **Gear**: Boots with grip, light jacket, water bottle.
